As incredible as it may sound, back in
1968 the rise of fashionable modern plastics was starting to make Portuguese
people feel ashamed of their lovely traditional earthenware.
There were only a few potters left in
the Algarve and it looked as if this ancient art would be lost forever when the
final pot fell off the shelf - and nobody knew how to make them anymore.
Artist friends Patrick Swift and Lima de
Freitas saw what was happening and in an attempt to, shall we say, “catch the
pot mid-air” - opened a little pottery workshop on the outskirts of Porches.
They restored the locals' pride in their
heritage and enlisting their help began a remarkable journey that has meant
that now, more than half a century later, I don’t think you can say Porches
without thinking pottery.
Indeed, if you are a long term
inhabitant of the Algarve you probably have a plate hanging on your wall.
I do! And yet, I’m ashamed to say, I had
never actually visited. Until now…
History all around
Walking in, I was quite overwhelmed by
the beauty of this old Algarvian farmhouse-style building and by the number of
plates, bowls, vases and all kinds of other beautiful ceramic creations
covering the tables, shelves and even walls.
Looking closer, I saw they were
decorated with anything from flowers and leaves to animals like hares,
antelope, fish and, what I later realised was almost the ‘mascot’ of the place:
a phoenix-like creature, known simply as the ‘Phoenician bird’ (that can even
be found standing guard on either side of the entrance).
What I thought was really wonderful
though, is that if you are curious about how all this stuff is made - you can
see them making it! The open workshop means you can look in and see a group of
lovely Portuguese ladies (many of whom have worked there for more than 30
years) happily chatting away whilst casually working magic with the ends of
their paint brushes.
No such thing as a mistake
Porches Pottery is now run by Patrick
Swift's daughters, Estella and Juliet. I met Juliet first and she gave me a
little crash course in pottery making.
I found out that painting on pottery is
tricky for a few reasons. For one thing, the colours change after the firing
takes place. A mauve pigment, for example, turns into the brilliant electric
blue - found on so many of their pieces.
But also, there’s no such thing as a
mistake. You can’t undo or edit (without making it worse).
The trick, therefore, is to have a light
but bold touch. From the very beginning, Patrick Swift taught everybody to
paint with confidence and flair. To be “Swift in their movements”, you might
say.
Behind the scenes
Backstage, I met Brian. Brian is
Juliet's son and the third generation to work in the business. Growing up in
Ireland, he joined the pottery in 2015.
I found him working on a few different
‘azulejo’ (tile) commissions, including one based on Homer's Iliad. I was
particularly enamoured by his painting of Odysseus shooting his bow and arrow
through a line of axes (and thus winning back the heart of his wife Penelope).
Brian is also a filmmaker and
photographer and to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the pottery back in 2018,
he worked closely with author Paul Bond on a book that tells its truly
fascinating history. It's Brian's stunning photos that make the book such a joy
to flick through - and the perfect thing to have on your coffee table.
Living on in their work
Did someone say “coffee”? That’s a good
idea. We met up with Estella and went to the in-house Bar Bacchus (named after
the Roman God of wine) where we were surrounded by all kinds of beautiful tile
work by Patrick Swift, as well as his oldest daughter Katherine. Sadly they are
both no longer with us. However, sat outside under the gazebo in this glorious
garden - they kind of are. I find it wonderful that you can still live on in
your work like that…
Tracking down the past
Brian told me one of the things that was
so enjoyable about working on the book was the opportunity to go and uncover
some of the surviving work his grandpa did in the early days.
There was quite a lot in private
residences, but you can still find tile panels created in the 80s in a few
public places, including the Tree of Life in the Quinta do Lago Country Club,
as well as Vikings sailing through the bar of the Pestana Viking Hotel and a
blue Lion balancing on two legs above the door of the O Leão do Porches
restaurant.
Brian even found a more obscure one of
two gangs of rival green-slime fish preparing to ‘face off’ at the foot of the
stairs of an apartment building built in 1976 called the Torre Iberius in
Armação de Pêra.
But Porches Pottery's work can be found
all over the world. Estella, Juliet and Brian still regularly send off their
tile commissions but told me they never really know where they end up.
So, consider this a ‘shout out’: If you
have any of their work on your wall (or even in use in your kitchen) - I know
they would be delighted if you sent them a picture.
50 years is a long time. There’s a lot
of history here. Far too much for me to tell from my short visit.
To find out more, please add them on
Instagram @porchespottery or visit their website www.porchespottery.com
- or buy the book!