The work is generally understood to be a proclamation of devotion to her husband, English poet and playwright Robert Browning. In it, she uses the 14-line sonnet structure to express her love for him. An excerpt:

“How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.

I love thee to the depth and breadth and height

My soul can reach…

...and, if God choose,

I shall but love thee better after death.”

Here’s a variation on this theme. The Silver Coast of Portugal’s Figueira da Foz is known for its almost two-mile stretch of sand known as Rainha das Praias - Queen of Beaches. It’s a place to find family friendly beaches, waves for surfing, or a quiet cove past the forested hills of the Serra da Boa Viagem mountains. But there’s more to it than beaches. So here’s a “sonnet” to the Portuguese, fourteen reasons why the city is one of the country’s most treasured.

1. Santa Catarina Fortress. Sacked by British corsairs in 1685 and occupied by Napoleon’s troops in 1808, you too can be part of history by dining here or sipping a sunset toddy at the rooftop bar. Feeling playful? Indulge in miniature golf at the nearby course.


2. Church of São Julião. Located on Rua Galamba Marques, dating from 1080, this is considered one of Portugal’s oldest religious structures, where services are still held.


3. Municipal Museum. Dr. António dos Santos Rocha founded this museum in 1894. Archaeology buffs will be intrigued by collections of coins, weapons, and statues. Rua Calouste Gulbenkian, 33.


4. Casa do Paço. Due to its proximity - about 50 kilometres - Coimbra residents have long enjoyed Figueira da Foz as a retreat. Coimbra Bishop Dom João Melo built a holiday home here in the late 17th century. It’s worth a stop at Largo Professor António Victor Guerra, 4, to see the Delft tiles.


5. Palácio Sotto Maior. Joaquim Sotto Maior was a wealthy 19th-century Portuguese businessman who filled his residence with crystal chandeliers, candlesticks, clocks, and fabulous artwork. His former home is both a museum and a concert and conference venue. Rua Joaquim Sotto Maior, 75.


6. Casino Figueira. The casino is an unusual combination of modern appearance outside and Old World elegance inside. In addition to the usual slot machines, gaming tables, and restaurants, the casino offers entertainment. Check the schedule for performances here, at casinofigueira.pt.


7. Coliseu Figueirense. The bullfight ring has been part of Figueira da Foz’s history since 1895. Bulls are treated fairly well in Portugal: not killed, they enter the ring just once, after which they may well live out their life on a stud farm. The site is also used for concerts and other cultural events.


8. Sculpture. Works of Laranjeira Santos are on display at the Tourist Information Office on Avenida 25 de Abril. In the pool by the Santa Catarina Fortress, you can also see his sculpture, A Preguiça, “The Lazy Woman”, which has inspired some visitors, including this author.


9. Street Art. Murals are big in Fig, as a stroll through the Barrio Novo will reveal. A number of famous artists have contributed to making this neighborhood—which metamorphosed from slums and haystacks into elegant villas in the 19th century—an outdoor art gallery.


10. Live Concerts. Jazz, Latin, Classical, and other genres are represented at bandsintown.com, where info can be found about concerts in Figueira da Foz (or wherever you search).


11. Great Pizza. Growing up in Brooklyn, I am more than picky about my pizza. Gusto Pizza on Rua Maestro David Sousa, 97 has a crispy crust and fresh, innovative ingredients down to a science. They also offer a full menu of Italian dishes, as well as meat-based and vegan options.


12. Legendary Ice Cream. Since 1980 Geladaria Emanha has been delighting customers with their superb handmade ice cream concoctions. There are now two locations, Emanha 1 at Avenida 25 de Abril 62 and Emanha 2 at Esplanada Silva Guimarães 7, near the casino and clock tower.


13. Unique Hotel. A four-star hotel with excellent service and a great location in the Barrio Novo, one of the best parts of staying at Universal Boutique Hotel is strolling the gallery, where black and white photos and newspaper clippings detail the long history of guests who came for “the season” from all over Portugal and Spain.


14. Historic Castle. While the early 10th century Castle of Montemor-o-Velho is not in Figueira da Foz, it’s a mere 15 minute drive to the east, and well worth the visit for not only its history but the sense of serenity that pervades its open-air grounds. Things liven up, though, when Festival Forte comes to the Castle each August.

Author

Native New Yorker Tricia Pimental left the US in 2012, later becoming International Living’s first Portugal Correspondent. The award-winning author and her husband, now Portuguese citizens, currently live in Coimbra.

Tricia Pimental