The best places to eat, drink and escape the heat this summer

The green garden: BouBou’s

BouBou’s is a charmer. From the food, the staff and the decor to the young, blue-haired chef behind the kitchen counter. Led by Louise Bourrat, winner of Top Chef France 2022, the six year old restaurant recently revealed a new menu in their green courtyard in Principe Real. A cosy and airy space for those special summer nights, this family-run business knows how to make you feel welcome — and intrigued! Local, seasonal and green, the restaurant made it into the Michelin guide last year, and this guest would not be surprised if a star would soon fall on them as well.

The Portuguese-French chef’s gastronomy is centered around nature's gifts; the produce and its terroir. The choice is between two tasting menus: the Terrae, completely vegetarian, and the Omnivorous. But the restaurant is leaning very green and on seafood. It's flavorful, fun and fierce. It’s Santos Populares time in Lisbon and Bourrat has prepared a special little version of a deconstructed sardine for us, we try a CBD-infused dessert, and I would never exchange the grilled mushroom with raspberries I had for a steak. From sweet potato ceviche, a dish her mom made (that cannot be revealed here) and a chocolate garlic dessert, the flavours are strong and commanding, and the sommelier will bring you a qualified paring of wines.

Bourrat left cooking school after a year, as she explains: “You learn in the kitchen, not on the bench.” Therefore she decided to learn directly from internationally renowned names, in their kitchens. “I use French techniques on Portuguese products, and I like to take humble products and elevate them, it’s a good reward when it works,” Bourrat explains and concludes: “I have loved many places, but Portugal is the first place I’ve felt at home.”

The trip to Italy: Libertà

Fancy a little trip to Italy? Look no further than Libertà, located just behind Avenida da Liberdade. The Italian head chef running the show here knows what's up, and in true Italian style, simplicity and focus on great local produce rules the show. The restaurant has a small patio and big front windows that opens completely up to the street, great for people watching during aperitif hours, daily between 4pm and 7pm. Get the ‘goss’ and maybe some bites with your Negroni and work up an appetite for the indulgent pasta dishes to follow (you do not want to miss them). The pasta is made fresh in front of you in the restaurant, which has dubbed their profile an “unconventional Italian kitchen”. At the bar you can order delicious cocktails with names like ‘Greek Goddess’ — this one inspired by the bartenders' sister!

With over 15 years of experience and a Michelin star under his belt (Octavium in Hong Kong) head chef Silvio Armanni makes the combination of Italian tradition and innovation here very palpable. From light summer dishes with beets, orange and mascarpone to the heavy and indulgent ragout with sage and butter, to the sinful, yet light desserts, like the affogato; hazelnut ice cream with a shot of Espresso coffee. Needless to say, your summer tastebuds will be very happy here.

Opened a year and a half ago, the place has a cosmopolitan atmosphere, and the thought is to think global, and act local. Therefore Libertà works directly with more than 20 local suppliers, also organic ones and directly with farmers and fishermen. The restaurant has an emphasis on treating their staff very well and everyone from dishwashers to chefs has a personalised progression plan made. “We like to take our time to do it differently and do a personal touch on what we do. There is no copy-paste here,” the chef concludes.

The rooftop: Rossio Gastrobar

Too hot to walk the hills from sight to sight in Lisbon? Get a cool overview from the top of Rossio Gastrobar and enjoy some of the best drinks in town while you do it. With a view of the city from Rossio Square to the Castle of São Jorge, this is not only the place to be seen, but also the place to see. Last but not least, this is where you can explore the partnership between the gastronomy of executive chef João Correia and the cocktails by bar manager Flavi Andrade. A match made close to heaven here on the top floor of the Altis Avenida Hotel.

Award-winning Andrade is one of the best mixologists in Portugal and that’s is palpable in her refreshing and creative cocktails. This year the gastrobar won ‘Best Restaurant Bar in Portugal’ at the Mesa Marcada Awards and Flavi was once again distinguished as the ‘Best Barmaid in Portugal’, by the Lisbon Bar Show.

Among the 1940’s Lisbon glammy decor, you can savor the creations of Correia’s cuisine on your plate, with 90% of it being of local origin. Rossio Gastrobar's dishes are based mainly on oven and grill techniques and on traditional recipes mixed with an Asian and French twist. The fare is fresh, light and summerly: think razor clams with butter, lemon and herbs and yellow fin tuna belly melting on the tongue, squid and tomatoes with onion and lots of olive oil. In short: Come here for the cocktails, a meal or a light snack, and enjoy the views and maybe a sunset with some chill music in the background.

The getaway: Lilases Boutique House & Garden

In the Alentejo afternoon heat you will be greeted with a cooling glass of lemonade made with lemons from the garden as you enter this 18th century manor house in Mora, an hour and a half’s drive from Lisbon. Opened a year ago and restored to its former glory, the inside is just as gorgeous as the views from the balconies. Leaning on the manager's desk, framed old photographs of the family that used to live here for generations are waiting to be hung, and it does indeed feel very homely here. The staff at the 16-room hotel is very attentive, bringing us a cleansing smoothie while enjoying the shade by the pool. Breakfast is when and where you wish, so there is no need to bring a watch, but what you can bring is your pet!

If you do feel like doing some activities, these can also be booked: Join a beekeeper, go for yoga or meditation, a guided tour of Mora, go birdwatching or stargazing, or try your hand at pottery making with the wonderful, local artisan José Ramalhão, who possesses the most infectious laughter in the region. The experiences for guests are rooted in tradition and run by locals. But even though the hotel offers plenty of activities, you can also just relax on your private balcony, lounge by the pool or stroll through the streets of the small town. The beds are extremely comfortable and the atmosphere is that of well-scented, quiet luxury — the tranquility only broken by the swish of swallows jetting through the crisp evening air.

But despite the allure of this mansion and the views over the village and the almond groves — which from sunrise till sunset, is difficult to take your eyes off — the ultimate treat of this place is the food. The dishes served here are absolutely magnificent: It’s the traditional fish soup, invented by necessity, the Alentejo pork in puff pastry and the most refreshing pineapple cold soup, that makes the muses painted on the manor walls dance. Alentejo is famed for its traditional products, like wine, olive oil, bread and cheese, and this is as integrated into the everyday life in Alentejo as it is in the hotel’s restaurant. The chef also collects produce from the small kitchen garden and the dishes are simple, tasty and well prepared. (Pre-booking for dinner is necessary.)

The taster: Ode Winery

The district of Ribatejo north of Lisbon has a long-standing rumor among the Portuguese to be a bag-in-a-box wine kinda place. But this is about to change, especially if newcomer Ode Winery has something to say about it. If you really want to escape the scorching heat, drive 50 minutes north of Lisbon and dive into the cool, dark cellars of the winery. Here you will see the impressive oak barrels and clay amphoras, the old press where people still use their feet to squeeze the life out of the grapes — and, venturing deeper underground, a modern cathedral-style cellar and tasting room that will make you feel like you are starring in a James Bond movie.

Only two vintages in, Ode Winery was born in 2022 and is the brainchild of two Australians and a Brazilian who fell in love with Portugal. At the moment they have 11 references, five whites and five reds and a rosé. While the star of the show is the wines, you will also find an Asian inspired restaurant, the Cellar Door, on the premises.

Attempting to combine historical origin with state-of-the-art winemaking with a sustainable approach, the wines are produced according to the philosophy of "minimum intervention and maximum attention”. Winemaker Maria Vicente has more than 20 harvests under her belt and she follows organic, sustainable and regenerative principles to ensure healthy soils, positive organic matter and a disease-free environment, in order to secure that the quality of future harvests is something that the region can be proud of. “My aim is to create elegant and fruity wines, which respect the unique characteristics of the grape and allow you to appreciate not only the flavour, but also their place of origin, year after year,” she explains.

The original winery is from 1902, was expanded and remodeled in 2000 and the new owners have plans to build a hotel for wine tourism here as well.

For pisces and piscos: A Cevicheria

Chef Kiko Martins might be the star of the show, but so is the giant octopus hanging from the ceiling in A Cevicheria in Lisbons restaurant district Principe Real. The octopus is still here, but the Peruvian restaurant has just made the biggest change to their menu in their 10-year history. As the name reveals, this is the place to come for ceviche, a traditional Peruvian dish, here with a Portuguese twist, using cod, or adding asian and tropical flavors.

Emphasis is on fish and seafood with lots of citrus fruits, tiger milk and bold additions like raspberries, quinotto (quinoa-risotto) and seaweed. Produce is in season and carefully sourced by Martins, who will serve you platings too beautiful to eat, three layers of lobster in an ice cream cone and a cool lime granita with concha for dessert.

While the light fare is perfectly fitting for a hot summer's day, so are the dangerous Piscos, that many guests simply stop by and sip on the patio. The refreshing Peruvian drink made from lime juice, egg whites, sugar and Peruvian brandy comes in different variations and goes down very, very well. The restaurant also sports a good selection of wines, including one from Lisbon made especially for the restaurant.

A Cevicheria does not accept reservations, so all you have to do is show up at the door.

Karina Janø has been working in journalism, photography, and communication since earning her master's degree in Visual Culture and Cultural Journalism in 2012. Now a full-time freelancer, she writes and photographs for some of the biggest publications in Denmark and for some in the UK and Portugal. Topics of interest are mainly food, culture, and travel.  https://www.instagram.com/words_and_visuals_/

Karina Janø