A wonderful trip organised by Committee Member, Pascal Preudhomme and his wife Vanessa, proved to be both fun and educational. The party stayed in the comfortable Sherry Hip Hotel in Jerez de la Frontera, a perfect spot from which to foray deeper into Sherry country.
Pascal had enrolled the help of an excellent guide, Carlos, who became the interpreter and firm friend of everyone First day was spent first looking at the unique terroir and sampling local Palomino grape juice the normal foundation for Sherry in this area. This was at Hidalgo la Gitana whose cellars in Sanlucar de Barrameda the group was to visit later in the day for a tasting and a light tapas lunch.
Between the two Hidlago la Gitana visits a visit was made to Bodega Yuste a well-established Bodega on the edge of Sanlucar, proud owners of the prestigious La Kika label. The owner and the Bodega’s oenologist had made it their business to receive us and their insight to the whole mystery of Sherry making was invaluable.
Both these Bodegas produce Manzanilla in addition to the normal ranges of Oloroso, Amontillado and Palo Cortado. Manzanilla can only originate from the area of Sanlucar de Barrameda and provides hints of freshness and salted water due to the area´s proximity to the sea. The concept of ageing the sherry in barrel, transferring it from the top of a three barrel tier down to where it eventually gets bottled from the bottom tier, each barrel containing a “veil” of flor/yeast to mature the precious grape juice. Alcohol can also be added for fortification.
Dinner that evening included local flamenco, a performance specially put on for the Algarve Wine Society.
The second day was spent in Jerez itself and it was a tale of two halves with the day beginning in Emilio Hidalgo which is long established and still run by descendant, Juan Manuel Hidalgo who’s operation allowed him to buy in the Palamino “must” so he can select the finest and then sort it towards making future Amontillados (that start life under a layer of yeast) or Olorosos (which are aged oxidatively) His bodega was full of charm and his knowledge of the business endless. All the “Jerez” here was well aged and in particular the group tasted a Pedro Ximinez of 100 years of age.
Following this was a visit to Bodega Lustau. A substantially more modern, more commercial concern but nevertheless extremely beautiful, the Sherries being aged in huge, vaulted “Cathedrals”. The guide here was one of the new generation of young bright, female , Spanish oenologists. Lunch was taken here. Dinner that night was fish based at restaurant A Mar.
The final day took the group outside the strict Sherry Triangle of Sanlucar de Barrameda, Jerez de la Frontera and Puerto Santa Maria but proved to be a memorable morning visiting the Bodega Manuel Aragon la Chiclana, situated in what the owned proudly claimed to be the Spanish “Barrosa” valley, so named by an Australian many years ago while fighting to defend the area from the French.
This Bodega not only makes Sherry but also conducts research into old grape varieties now possibly facing extinction and suffering the effects of global warming. The owner , close to retiring, was enigmatic and enthusiastic, full of fascinating stories and relating the history of the area. A fun visit but also a serious one with a tasting at least two Sherries that have received international awards and were much sought after.
The final visit of the day, in contrast to Bodega Manuel Aragon la Chiclana, was an impressive “vineyard” as opposed to a traditional Sherry Bodega, high on a hill on the outskirts of Jerez itself. This was Bodega Luis Perez and here a range of wines, many from the traditional Palomino grape, were tasting and enjoyed. The tasting took the form of a tasting lunch with Tapas.
The final dinner was a seven course tasting menu at Restaurant La Carbona where seven Sherries were tasted and the final dessert course was accompanied by a seriously interesting Sherry “cocktail” comprising Amontillado, seven up and whisky all poured over chopped ice, a fitting end to a wonderful trip.
By Gaynor Stapleton