A taste of ancient Portuguese sweets

This traditional recipe has remained unchanged for generations, ensuring the same rich, authentic flavour that has made these pastries a beloved symbol of Portuguese culinary heritage. With each bite, Pastéis de Belém offers a taste of history, preserving the essence of ancient Portuguese sweets while delighting visitors from around the world.

In 1834, as a result of Portugal’s Liberal Revolution of 1820, the monastery that is today one of Lisbon’s most popular places to visit was closed, expelling the clergy and workers living within. In an attempt to survive, someone from the Monastery started selling the pastries at a small place of varied commerce, and they were quickly named “Pastéis de Belém”.

Pastéis de Belém

“The recipe started being made here at this place in 1837. This used to be a small trading shop, a typical convenience store from the 19^th century where our front counter is today”, Miguel Clarinha, co-owner of Pastéis de Belém, told The Portugal News. “At the back, there used to exist a sugar refinery, so they used its facilities to make the cakes, this small store started selling them and the rest is history.”

The sugar refinery is now gone, but the bakery has remained here as a family business for almost two centuries, which Miguel and his cousin Penelope have inherited. “The small counter expanded into bigger rooms and more space, so a lot has changed. Currently, the bakery has almost 300 seats, two counters, and more than 200 people working here”, Miguel elaborated on the progress made over time. “But the one thing that has remained unchanged is the original recipe from the Monastery and the way they’re made – they are still handmade, one by one.”

This tradition is the core of the bakery’s business. “We have our own history and a unique product, so we’re different in many ways. The thing that probably sets us apart the most are the Pastéis de Belém, as this is the only place they are baked and sold. When you put that together with the history of this bakery, product and all the neighbourhood, that’s what makes this a special place.”

A family legacy

The bakery has grown to be an international sensation, selling 25 thousand of the iconic pastries a day, but Clarinha is firm on his approach to running things, focusing on keeping the integrity of the traditions its built on. “Our purpose is to try and maintain the tradition, keep the recipe original and the way they are made, respect the history and what Pastéis de Belém stands for and to help the bakery be ready for the changes that have been happening, and that will continue happening.”

“We’ve been focused on developing the bakery, both in terms of the rooms for our customers as well as in the production areas, optimising the space as much as we can”, he added. “We know what can and must be done to ensure that this place is ready for the next decade and that we can keep on providing a quality service to our customers, while maintaining good working conditions for our staff”.

Miguel and Penelope consider this to be the utmost priority for the bakery’s management, and don’t have any plans for opening new locations anytime soon. “We feel that there’s a lot to be done here, and once the bakery is renovated to its full potential, then both Penelope and I, or future generations may consider expanding, but for now, our focus is the quality and the original recipe. We’re not willing to sacrifice that for profit.”

Baking history

Passed down and known exclusively by master pastry chefs, the unique secret recipe is the foundation of the bakery’s timeless success and appeal. “We only have five chefs that know how to make the pastry and custard, while for all the other steps of production we have about 60 people involved. It’s been a big tradition here, every time a new chef needs to come in, it’s always someone who has already been in the bakery for many years, someone in whom we trust and is already part of the family.”

He continued, “it means a lot to be able to contribute and be a part of history. I mostly enjoy being able to see the changes that we can make and being able to work with all the people every day and getting to know them, bring them into the team and try to make this a special place to work, not only to visit as a customer.”

At the end of the day, he recognises that this isn’t just a family business, but a site of immense cultural heritage, deeply intertwined with the history of the country, and especially for the city of Lisbon. It stands as a living monument to the traditions, craftmanship, and values that have shaped not only the local community but also the wider cultural identity of Portugal. “It’s a historic bakery that doesn’t really belong to us, but to the city, the country and everyone who visits us.”

“This is not about me or the people who run the business, it’s about the bakery and the Pastéis de Belém. This is a unique product that you won’t find anywhere else in the world”, Miguel concluded.

You can try the famous pastries, along with many other bakery goods such as their specialty marmalade, by taking the pilgrimage yourself to Pastéis de Belém. It’s a short walk from Belém train station, and on your visit, you can also see many of the most iconic sites in Portugal scattered around the area, such as the Belém Tower, the Discoveries Monument, the Jerónimos Monastery and the Belém Palace.

A journalist that’s always eager to learn about new things. With a passion for travel, adventure and writing about this diverse world of ours.

“Wisdom begins in wonder” -  Socrates

Kate Sreenarong